Distance: 6 Kilometers

Time: 2.5 hours

Before getting to Ometepe, I had wanted to climb Concepcion, the active volcano on the island. Unfortunately, the weather was less than cooperative.  December and January is generally considered dry season in Nicaragua, but the weather was rainy and overcast while I was on the island. Thick clouds are not great weather for climbing volcanoes. The clouds shroud the entire cone of the volcano with a dense blanket of fog.

I did not want to leave Ometepe without having done any hiking. The island is, after all, a nature-lovers paradise. So I opted instead for a hike that was less dependent on the weather: San Ramon Waterfall. The hike to the San Ramon Waterfall is a must-do on Ometepe. An added benefit, the trailhead is on the Maderas side of the island which was the side I was staying on. I hopped on a bike, rode the ~9 kilometers to the trailhead, paid the $3 entry fee (per person), and began my trek to the waterfall.

Kilometers 1 and 2

The first three kilometers are pretty much just a walk up a semi-paved hill. I did not know this before arriving at the trailhead, but for an additional fee, you can drive your motorcycle/scooter/quad up the first three kilometers of the trip.  It is not the nicest road in the world, but driving certainly makes it an easier trip. Even if we had ridden scooters instead of bicycles, I would not recommend biking up. The trail was a sustained climb, but did not justify motorized transport.

The weather was absolutely beautiful. After almost a full day of sporadic showers the day before, I was happy to see that it was going to be a sunny day. I started early enough in the day that the air was still cool despite being sunny. The green fields leading up the side of Maderas were absolutely stunning. Quickly, the fields turned into cloud-forest as I continued up the volcano. I welcomed the accompanying sun-showers.

Kilometer 3

It is obvious that there is an immediate change in the trail at the two-kilometer mark. This is where the fun part of the hike begins.  All vehicles are parked at kilometer two. Beyond that, the trail devolves into a rocky, mud path through the jungle.  There is a brief descent through a canyon with a welcome cool breeze. This part of the hike was beautiful, but not in a way that looks good in photos.

After some climbing through the jungle, I arrived at the first river crossing. I, mistakenly,  figured I must be close to the waterfall if I was crossing the river.  After a bit more climbing, I found myself in a canyon that felt straight out of Jurassic Park.  If a raptor had burst out around the corner, I would have felt just a normal amount of surprise.

The next section of the hike was some minor scrambling up tiny waterfalls.  It was around this point in the hike that I realized the third kilometer was a “longer-than-average” kilometer.  Despite the official claim that the full trek to the waterfall is three kilometers, reports all over the internet state that it is closer to four. I am not sure I would say that, but I think the last kilometer was more like a mile.

At the San Ramon Waterfall

I did not find the hike particularly challenging. It was nonetheless a relief to finally arrive at the waterfall.  My skin was feeling sticky from climbing up in the humidity.  The thought of cooling off in the pool below the falls sounded quite refreshing.  Thanks to some foresight, I was able to strip down to the bikini under my clothes. The water was cold, even considering the sweat I had worked up.  I spent a few minutes cooling off in the water before retreating to a place nearby to dry-out in the sun.

Kilometers 4 Through 6

The return trip consists of going back down the same trail as the way up.  That is not to say that it is uneventful. There are beautiful views of Lake Cocibolca all the way down.  The sun was higher in the sky and the weather was much hotter. I did not have any sunscreen with me, so I can describe the trip down as light jogs between patches of shade. At the bottom, horses hanging out next to the lake welcomed me back.

I had not stopped for food on the way to the trailhead, so by the time I reached the bottom, I was pretty hungry.  There is a restaurant on the grounds of the trail, but I decided to eat at an inviting-looking place I had passed called Comedor Gloriana. Overall, I would say do not forgo the hike to the San Ramon Waterfall, even if you are staying on the Concepcion side of the island. Remember to bring a bathing suit, plenty of water, and if I were to do it again I would wear some type of water shoes.

Trip Stats

Distance: 8 miles
Time: 3 hours (and change)

Background

The trail of ten falls is located in Oregon’s Silver Falls State Park, about 90 minutes south of Portland. When I first started planning my weekend in Portland, I knew there was going to be some hiking on the itinerary. The obvious choice is usually to head to Portland’s backyard: the Columbia River Gorge. Unfortunately, there was the devastating fire that hit the area in late summer.  A lot of the hikes I was interested in were closed indefinitely. I guess I had to find a plan B.

The name of the trail was very intriguing. Trail of Ten Falls: that’s a lot of falls. The distance seemed a little off putting.  Eight miles is possibly a little long for a half day hike.  Fortunately, most of the beta I was reading about the walk said people typically spent 3 hours on the hike, so it sounded like a go! We woke up at 8AM, grabbed some coffee and hit the road 🙂

Canyon Trail

The trail of ten falls loop is actually made by linking two trails: canyon trail and rim trail. For a fantastic start, head out on canyon trail. You will immediately find yourself at South Falls, arguably the best waterfall on the trail. I would argue against you if you said that, but it was Dennis’s favorite. Before you reach the south falls amphitheatre, you will have the option to take a short side trip to Frenchie falls. This is the one side trip I would suggest you skip. By the end of the loop you will have waterfall fatigue, and it just wasn’t all that great.

Continue down the canyon trail and you will have the opportunity to walk behind South Falls. It is a very cool experience and you will get wet. This is a beautiful waterfall, but don’t spend too much time here, you still have 9 more!

There was a trail race in the park the day I did the trail, and the runners were travelling in the opposite direction as me. About a mile later when I hit Lower South Falls, there was a photographer setup to take action shots of the runners as they passed behind that waterfall. I wish I had known about this race ahead of time to sign up for this shot alone. It really would have been an epic. Passing under this fall was also one of the first times in my life I wish I brought a tripod hiking with me. Lower south falls is a crowd pleaser and bottle-neck along the trail.

The next mile-ish after lower south falls was uneventful. It was very lush, and beautiful, but there were a lot of people. Finally we arrived at lower north falls. Under normal circumstances, it would be a very lovely waterfall, but compared to the previous two, it was just ok.

Just past lower north falls, there is a side trip to double falls. Definitely go check it out! Standing right beneath double falls is a very cool experience. It is a very intimate view point.  There is this cool rush of air that comes over you in the tiny canyon at the base of the falls. This one was probably one of my favorites.

Back on the trail, you pass drake falls. Like lower north, it is not a particularly captivating waterfall. Keep going and you get to another short side trip where you go and walk behind middle north falls. This was my favorite waterfall by a mile. As you wrap behind the fall you come to this amazing view point which was definitely the highlight of the hike from me.

At this point, I thought the trail kept going, but actually you have to backtrack to the trail to avoid bushwhacking. The next waterfall you pass is twin falls. Not an exciting waterfall for me, and also at this point I was beginning to feel waterfall-fatigue :/ We passed a few runners at this point who asked me to take a picture of them. I did, but I have no idea how to get the photos to them, plus, I’m sure they weren’t as good as the action shots on the course.

After some uneventful walking, we finally arrived at North Falls: The crown jewel of the canyon trail. This waterfall has a giant cavern behind it with some amazing vantage points. After stopping for some photo ops, we finished the canyon trail which ends at a parking lot. There is one more quick side trip beyond the parking lot to see upper north falls.

Rim Trail

At this point, we had seen 9 of the 10 waterfalls, the race was wrapping up, and the weather was deteriorating. Reports online say that the Rim Trail is a letdown after the Canyon Trail. It certainly wasn’t as dramatic as walking through the canyon, but I saw some of my favorite views of the day on the Rim Trail. I guess one reason why people might not like it as much is that you are walking right next to the road.

We still had one more waterfall to see, but we were also starting to get really cold. When we finally came to the junction with Winter Falls (aptly named for our trip), we had a moment of deliberation as to whether we were going to go check it out. In the end, we had come to see ten waterfalls and would not settle for any less. We head down to see it. I certainly do not regret making the side trip to go see the tenth waterfall, but it also was just not as spectacular as some of the other falls we had seen during the day. Plus, there was a couple standing there ruining our photo-ops :p

The last mile or so parallels a bike path, and it was just a casual stroll through cold drizzle back to the car. Overall all the Trail of Ten Falls did not disappoint. It is the perfect length and distance from Portland to be a good half day trip if you want to get out of the city and into the woods.  We made it back to Portland just in time to share a cheese plate at Cheese and Crack.  A solid day in my book 🙂

I absolutely love Portland.  It is honestly one of my favorite cities in the US and Oregon is easily one of the most beautiful states.  Besides being an awesome jumping off point for discovering the pacific northwest, the city of Portland has a lot to offer visitors as well.  Despite being a relatively young city, it has a fascinating history, amazing food culture and no sales tax!  If you find yourself in Stumptown, follow my itinerary for your best day in Portland 🙂

Morning

Start your day off right by heading to Hunnymilk for brunch.  Hunnymilk is a permanent pop-up brunch spot serving up an amazing deal.  For $22, you get to choose one of the sweet dishes, one of the savory dishes and a drink.  When I went, I got the ribs and grits and the french toast.  My boyfriend ordered baked eggs and waffles.  We split both.  Everything was delicious, with huge portions, so don’t feel bad if you take some home in a box, they give boxes to almost everyone.  One tip: try to make it at opening (9 AM).  They have some trouble turning tables.  If you don’t make it, they have plenty of games and books set out to keep you entertained.

After brunch, walk three block west to Heart Coffee Roasters for a mocha.  They have really good latte art, and the coffee quality is very high.  Note: this stop is optional if you aren’t as addicted to caffeine as I am.

Make your way to the far west of Portland, up to Pittock mansion for the best views of the city.  The mansion charges an entrance fee, but allows you to walk the grounds.  Also, Pittock mansion is technically in Forest Park and there is a very nice trail if you want to walk to the house.  We drove to the top.  Maybe if we had gotten to Hunnymilk earlier we would have had time for the hike.

History Lesson: Henry Pittock, owner of the mansion arrived in Portland in 1853 penniless.  He got a job working at a publication called the Oregonian for a man named Thomas Dryer.  Dryer was not much of a businessman.  He was frequently unable to pay Pittock.  When Dryer left Portland for a role in Lincoln’s administration, he gifted the Oregonian to Pittock as reimbursement for unpaid wages.  Despite fierce competition, Pittock was able to rise the Oregonian ahead of alternative dailies by organizing an expensive system to retrieve news of the civil war before his competitors.  It was through this system that the Oregonian was the first in Portland to report the news of Lincoln’s assassination!

Just a short ways from the mansion is the Portland Japanese Garden in Washington Park.  This is an absolute must.  I have only been in the Autumn (a week after The Maple had shed its leaves) and it was absolutely gorgeous.  Please not that I think this is a three season activity.  It was stunning with Autumn colors, but I am just not sure how pleasant it would be to wander around in the winter time.

Just across the street from the entrance of the Japanese Garden is the International Rose Test Garden.  Spend a little bit of time wandering through.  My boyfriend and I spent about fifteen minutes wandering the grounds, and I think this is enough time for most people.  It was nice to see it, especially considering you can enter for free, but I think it is probably a better experience in the summer or spring.

History Lesson:  Citizens of Portland proposed The International Rose Test Garden  in 1917.  Even before the existence of this garden, Portland already had the nickname: City of Roses.  Between this nickname and the willing volunteers, the garden soon became a reality.  During World War II, the president of Portland’s Rose Society petitioned to save hybrid roses from Europe.  Countries around the world sent their hybrid roses and the people of Portland considered the project a success.  Today the garden features 4.5 acres with views of Mount Hood and the Cascades.

Afternoon

Once you are finished with Washington Park, head into the central part of Portland.  Our first stop in downtown will be Powell’s City of Books.  The building occupies an entire city block and is a book lover’s paradise.  This bookstore is so large that I was lost for ten minutes trying to find the bathroom. There are so many interesting rooms full of books in this store, but the real crown jewel is the rare books room on the top floor.  If you are a collector, and even if you are not, this is a very cool room. The oldest book was published in the fifteenth century.  The most valuable book carries a price tag of over $300,000 (not on display).

History Lesson:  Walter Powell founded Powell’s books in 1971.  After not being offered a lease renewal, Walter’s son Michael came to Portland to help his father find the current location of the headquarters.  Powell’s City of Books grew to its current size after an expansion in 1999.  They claim to be the largest new and used bookstore in the world.  The bookstore purchases 3,000 books (new and used) every day.

After you are done exploring Powell’s, head to the Lan Su Chinese Garden in the Pearl district. Though small, maintenance of the park is meticulous.  The $10 entry fee may sounds steep, but I think it is well worth it.  When I was there, there was a floral arrangement festival going on, so they were offering all the guests sparkling wine, which in a shocking turn of events, I declined.  The park is small.  Take your time to explore the nooks and crannies.  Every corner of the park contains secrets.

At this time, if you are starting to feel hungry, make your way to Blue Star Donuts for a snack. Perhaps this is a controversial suggestion, after all, Portland is pretty famous for Voodoo Doughnuts.  Before my trip, three separate people advised me to avoid Voodoo and opt for Blue Star.  I thought this was an odd suggestion.  I had been to Portland previously and I actually enjoyed my doughnut from Voodoo. But this time I decided to try something new, and I think Blue Star has better doughnuts.  Or at least, they are more up my alley.

If you are not super hungry, but could go for some coffee, I suggest heading to Barista in the Pearl District.  I actually did not go there.  I let Yelp convince me to go somewhere else and it was a mistake. From everything I have heard, Barista has great coffee, an unpretentious atmosphere, and fantastic latte art.  If you are not planning on leaving the central part of Portland, definitely opt for Barista.

Evening

After your late afternoon snack, make your way to Kells Irish Pub.  This is the meeting point of Portland’s haunted brewery crawl.  I understand that ghost tours are not everyone’s cup of tea, but this was actually the best I have ever been on.  The history of the city is really interesting.  Many of the stories told on this tour covered both “normal” history, and the darker side of history.  The tour starts in a smoking lounge in the old Shanghai Tunnels.  You get to enjoy a flight of beers, then head outside for a walking tour.  At the end you return to another restaurant/pub where you get another flight of beers.  Besides just being a very insightful tour, it was also one of the scariest ghost tours I have ever been on.  The final trip into the tunnels left the entire group on edge, even after six beers!

History Lesson:  Originally built after a great flood in Portland, the Old Portland Underground, better known as the Shanghai Tunnels, still span much of Old Town and Chinatown in Portland. They were constructed to move items from the shores of the Willamette into town, but quickly became a hotbed for drug smuggling and human trafficking.  Today, the tunnels are mostly privately owned or filled in.

Finish your evening with dinner at Han Oak.  Han Oak is a Korean food adventure lead by Peter Cho.  Peter Cho’s playful style allows his restaurant to sometimes be a prix-fixe menu, and other times a dinner-party style evening of noodles and dumplings.  I did not actually eat at Han Oak, but it is at the top of my list when I return.  While in Portland, I ate at Coquine and Pok Pok, which are both excellent options.  Han Oak had been on my radar before my trip.   I heard good things about it while I was there also.  It is definitely a place you need a reservation for on the weekend.  When I looked at reservations about a week before my trip, the earliest time on a Sunday was 9:30!

New York City is the  the ultimate American urban center, with the island of Manhattan being the first stop on most itineraries.  But even Manhattan is large enough to be overwhelming to first timers.  With the help of my sister (a Manhattan local), I have compiled a guide to the best day in Manhattan, to help you make the most out of your visit.  Get a good pair of shoes and be ready to make plenty of coffee stops.  This itinerary is packed!

Morning

Start your day off like the locals do and make brunch your first stop.  Make your way to Bubby’s Highline.  This is a trendy brunch place with the possibility of celebrity sitings and fantastic bloody marys.  Make sure to get there early, lines can get crazy after 10.

After you have finished your breakfast, take a walk up the high line.  The high line is a former railway turned elevated park/walkway.  Today, the highline is an iconic example of contemporary landscape architecture.

History Lesson:  The highline was originally a road-level railroad in the mid 1800s.  There were no barriers between the trains and traffic other than flag-bearing cowboys.  Naturally, this was not the safest solution and the number of accidents that occurred led to Tenth Avenue earning the nickname “Death Avenue”.  By the early 1900s a plan was in place to build elevated tracks which were open to use by 1939.  By the 1950s, the growth of interstate trucking began to have a noticeable effect on rail industry.  The last train operated on the highline in 1980.

Once you have reached the end of the highline, head to the metro station and make your way to 30 Rockefeller Plaza.  While undoubtedly touristy, the views from the top are some of the best in the city.  After soaking in the sights, head up to Central Park.

Afternoon

Meander through the park, take your time and enjoy it.  There are plenty of attractions within the park including pedal boats, caricature artists, and hansom cabs.  Of course, the park is large enough that just walking through people watching will keep you entertained.

Keep walking up the park until you arrive at 90th street.  Once there, make your way over to 5th Avenue.  You may find yourself a bit hungry, so it’s a good time to stop for some food at Bluestone Lane for a coffee and snack.

Once your stomach stops rumbling, head down the block to the Guggenheim Museum, the premier modern and contemporary art museum in New York City.  The building that it occupies is enough reason to choose the Guggenheim. If contemporary art just isn’t your thing, there are plenty of other museums on the same block.

History Lesson: One of the most notable aspects of the Guggenheim collection is the building it occupies.  While this building is classic, it is not the original home of the museum.  The idea for the unique structure was conceived as a ‘Temple of the Spirit’; a new way to organize space for art.  Frank Lloyd Wright (the architect of the building) produced four sketches between 1943 and 1944.  Wright initially landed on a ‘Ziggurat’, or inverted pyramid, with the intention that guests would take an elevator to the top and descend at a leisurely pace.  It was this, in addition to the location next to the park, that produced the continuous spiral building recognizable today.

Evening

Make your way back down the island to the trendy Greenwich Village to spend the rest of your day.  Greenwich is the one of the hippest neighborhoods in the city and you will find more than  enough options for dinner, dessert and drinks to keep you going into the evening.

Greenwich has a number of restaurants to choose from, but check out Chomp Chomp, a hawker-style Singaporean restaurant.  After dinner, walk two blocks to arrive at Pasticceria Rocco.  This is the ultimate bakery to cap your night off with a cookie in New York City.  If you aren’t exhausted after your long day of exploring Manhattan, then get ready for a night on the town.  Hit one of the neighborhoods bars and relax after your best day in Manhattan 🙂

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