Distance: 6 Kilometers

Time: 2.5 hours

Before getting to Ometepe, I had wanted to climb Concepcion, the active volcano on the island. Unfortunately, the weather was less than cooperative.  December and January is generally considered dry season in Nicaragua, but the weather was rainy and overcast while I was on the island. Thick clouds are not great weather for climbing volcanoes. The clouds shroud the entire cone of the volcano with a dense blanket of fog.

I did not want to leave Ometepe without having done any hiking. The island is, after all, a nature-lovers paradise. So I opted instead for a hike that was less dependent on the weather: San Ramon Waterfall. The hike to the San Ramon Waterfall is a must-do on Ometepe. An added benefit, the trailhead is on the Maderas side of the island which was the side I was staying on. I hopped on a bike, rode the ~9 kilometers to the trailhead, paid the $3 entry fee (per person), and began my trek to the waterfall.

Kilometers 1 and 2

The first three kilometers are pretty much just a walk up a semi-paved hill. I did not know this before arriving at the trailhead, but for an additional fee, you can drive your motorcycle/scooter/quad up the first three kilometers of the trip.  It is not the nicest road in the world, but driving certainly makes it an easier trip. Even if we had ridden scooters instead of bicycles, I would not recommend biking up. The trail was a sustained climb, but did not justify motorized transport.

The weather was absolutely beautiful. After almost a full day of sporadic showers the day before, I was happy to see that it was going to be a sunny day. I started early enough in the day that the air was still cool despite being sunny. The green fields leading up the side of Maderas were absolutely stunning. Quickly, the fields turned into cloud-forest as I continued up the volcano. I welcomed the accompanying sun-showers.

Kilometer 3

It is obvious that there is an immediate change in the trail at the two-kilometer mark. This is where the fun part of the hike begins.  All vehicles are parked at kilometer two. Beyond that, the trail devolves into a rocky, mud path through the jungle.  There is a brief descent through a canyon with a welcome cool breeze. This part of the hike was beautiful, but not in a way that looks good in photos.

After some climbing through the jungle, I arrived at the first river crossing. I, mistakenly,  figured I must be close to the waterfall if I was crossing the river.  After a bit more climbing, I found myself in a canyon that felt straight out of Jurassic Park.  If a raptor had burst out around the corner, I would have felt just a normal amount of surprise.

The next section of the hike was some minor scrambling up tiny waterfalls.  It was around this point in the hike that I realized the third kilometer was a “longer-than-average” kilometer.  Despite the official claim that the full trek to the waterfall is three kilometers, reports all over the internet state that it is closer to four. I am not sure I would say that, but I think the last kilometer was more like a mile.

At the San Ramon Waterfall

I did not find the hike particularly challenging. It was nonetheless a relief to finally arrive at the waterfall.  My skin was feeling sticky from climbing up in the humidity.  The thought of cooling off in the pool below the falls sounded quite refreshing.  Thanks to some foresight, I was able to strip down to the bikini under my clothes. The water was cold, even considering the sweat I had worked up.  I spent a few minutes cooling off in the water before retreating to a place nearby to dry-out in the sun.

Kilometers 4 Through 6

The return trip consists of going back down the same trail as the way up.  That is not to say that it is uneventful. There are beautiful views of Lake Cocibolca all the way down.  The sun was higher in the sky and the weather was much hotter. I did not have any sunscreen with me, so I can describe the trip down as light jogs between patches of shade. At the bottom, horses hanging out next to the lake welcomed me back.

I had not stopped for food on the way to the trailhead, so by the time I reached the bottom, I was pretty hungry.  There is a restaurant on the grounds of the trail, but I decided to eat at an inviting-looking place I had passed called Comedor Gloriana. Overall, I would say do not forgo the hike to the San Ramon Waterfall, even if you are staying on the Concepcion side of the island. Remember to bring a bathing suit, plenty of water, and if I were to do it again I would wear some type of water shoes.